![]() If both sides of the INSTR LPS fuse are dead, probe the dark green wire at the headlamp switch with a test light:.Make sure the PCB isn't grounding to bare metal. If only one side of the INSTR LPS fuse is hot, replace the INSTR LPS fuse and locate the short-to-ground in the wiring between the fuse block and the PCB. ![]() Using a pencil eraser, gently burnish the bulb socket connections to the PCB being careful to avoid peeling the copper foil loose from the PCB. If the gray wire is 'hot' - verify all of the dash bulbs are good, check the electrical connection between the harness connector and the instrument cluster circuit board (PCB), and check the instrument cluster ground connection to the cab sheetmetal.If the gray wire is 'dead' - verify that the INSTR LPS fuse is making good electrical connection to both of its terminals in the fuse block, then locate and repair the open in the gray wire between the INSTR LPS fuse and the instrument cluster harness connector.If both sides of the INSTR LPS fuse are 'hot,' probe the gray wire at the instrument cluster harness connector with the test light:.Use a test light clipped to a verified good ground to probe both sides of the Instrument Lamps (INSTR LPS) fuse. Switch the running lights ON with the dash lamp dimmer rotated all the way counterclockwise. a month later.Īgain, I hope it's the license plate light socket rusty and provided increased resistance on the circuit hence blowing the fuse.Refer to the appropriate year wiring manual in the Tech Section of the Forum, about half-way down the page. So then next I replaced the stalk turn signal / head light stalk switch. I replaced the flasher but that didn't fix it. a month ago the turn signal flasher was clicking real fast (no lights, only clicking). So I hope tomorrow to pull that lamp and either just remove the bulb or clean the socket so that it works and maybe that will cure my problem. Now I see the schematic and read that license plate lamp is also on that circuit. Today I replaced the parking lamp relay, but no good. All parking lamps (& stop/brake lamps work - problem solved (or so I thought!)ĭrove down the road and a mile away from home "Click" and the lights go out. Installed all lamps with power on one at a time and no blow. I removed all the plastic lamp housings (front and rear) and pulled all 8 bulbs - 2 in front and 3 on each side in rear. Now, a year later same 10 amp fuse (passenger side kick panel) blows and no marker lights, dash lights, but radio (clock only) lights and radio operates. A local mechanic replaced one of the bulbs and problem cured. A year ago the parking lamp fuse kept blowing. I have an '06 Saturn Vue (w/ auto headlamps) and we've had the same RECURRING problem. If fuse does not pop you can start reinstalling bulbs until the fuse does blow. Repost for more diagrams if fuses blow with no lamps installed. ![]() Try a new fuse with hatch door open as this harness might have a problem. It the fuse pops its either wiring or something in the IP circuits. I'd try a new fuse when all bulbs are removed - assuming you don't run across a bulb or socket along the way that appears damaged. I believe I'd get a supply of fuses but would first pull each and every bulb to carefully check the bulb base and socket. You could have a shorted bulb or severely corroded bulb socket. Does not apply if you don't have trailer wiring. One of first items I'd check is to make sure my trailer light harness wasn't crimped or touching exhaust system. there are different diagrams for Vues with and without auto head lights. You say tail lights and I'm assuming you refer to parking lights (front, rear and license plate lights).
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